Sunday, November 9, 2008

Nov04 Queenstown to Franz Joseph

Sunny in the am. Poor sleep. Maybe new shoes, driving position, poor mattresses, or getting old, but my back is protesting most nights. Emptied tanks, filled tanks, unplugged, got rolling.

Went 10 km out of our way to see two things… the original bungee and a cheesery/winery.
AJ Hackett’s bungee off an old suspension bridge was flanked by a posh new bungee center, multiple viewing platforms, etc. Making some money, letting people throw themselves off a bridge for a fee…




As much as I wanted to, I couldn’t see it being a greater rush than the canyon swing, and by watching the jumpers, it was over way too soon. Get harnessed, climb out, jump,, grab the pole extended from the raft, get lowered, unstrapped, and you even have to walk all the way back up yourself.

There was one older lady we watched take the plunge…




Stupid logical brain. We walked away.

Not 3 km’s down the road was the cheesery and winery Denise has highlighted. We got some Excellent cheese from the tasting shop, tough not to try/buy everything, tremendous varieties, sheep/goat/cow milk, blue cheeses and stinky cheeses. Finally went nextdoor to the wine tour, nothing special, but the wine cave hewn into the rock face behind the winery was cool…





Didn’t much care for the three included tastings, the wine was young and sharp, and they were positioning themselves as an “easy drinking” wine, albeit with upmarket pricing and marketing. Didn’t restock our small wine cupboard here.

Headed back to take an interesting road/shortcut. A sign warned “not suitable for campervans”, but it wasn’t on the list of Kea’s “forbidden” roads, so….

Wow. Twists and switchbacks, looping atop each other as the pavement snaked up the steeper portions, then off on a still steep tangent to a higher point, then more switchbacks yet again. Over and over. Not just normal switchbacks. So tight the rear wheels were scuffing the blacktop as I coasted around in second gear.



Stopped at a lookoff to allow the turbo to cool and to see the scenery, met a few bikers who’d just done the same thing. I was envious, but not for long as the descent was recently chipsealed, and the rain had restarted. Not fun on a bike.

Chipseal is when they spray down a layer of tar then basically dump sharp edged gravel on top. Graded down and compacted, the rocks adhere to the sticky layer and eventually everything hardens int a fair approximation of asphalt. Eventually.

Fresh chipseal is about the worst surface on a motorcycle. Everything looks the same, whether it’s stuck down like pavement or loose like a patch of gravel. You just never know if the bike will turn or stop as expected. Add to that the bonus of getting pelted by loose stones at 50 miles an hour, bruising legs and chipping paint, and it’s plain to see how hateful it is for bikers.

Got past the roadworks, the road turning smoother, the turns long gentle sweepers interspersed with short straights through rainforest like greenery lining the road.



Some pretty landscapes along the way….





I was passing the few cars on the road, as they were running 80-90kms. I was now comfortable driving on the left side of the road, there is no wild animal population on New Zealand that poses a threat to cars by running out in front of them ( about the only road kill I see are possums), and my experience and training driving an ambulance had me cruising comfortably at the speed limit.

Most drivers are courteous, even putting on their signal and slowing so you can effect a crisp pass. No muss, no fuss, both going on about our way. One guy, though…. A blue van appeared up ahead, driving erratically. Changing speed, crossing the centerline. Nice.

Weather worsening, rain and overcast. (Milford Sound tunnel closed today due to snow!) Waterfalls everywhere….


Entering a small town at the mouth of a glacial river, the long one lane bridges have bulges built in every few hundred meters so oncoming traffic can get by without one having to back all the way up the long span. Interesting, but I can’t see a two-lane bridge being that much more expensive.



Entered the tiny town, all tourist driven, a small supermarket, tons of storefronts featuring “glacier” things to do

Found the campsite, planning on trying to get a glacier flight/hike deal in the am, where they chopper you out on top of the glacier field, then hike around the ice caves and such, before flying back. Sounds good, but the weather hasn’t been cooperating. Booked two nights here at the campsite, though, so hopefully we’ll get a break.

Cooked in the camper, then settled down early with books and laptop, hearing the intermittent hail tap the roof in counterpoint to the light thrum of rain.

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