Just a quick note...we're home.
We've been in planes and airports for the last 24+ hours, but to the world it's only been 2, that dateline's an odd thing.
Home. Safe.
Rest of pics and updates later.
G'nghtyall...
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Nov11 Waitomo caves
Tried to sleep in, as we’d booked two nights and therefore didn’t have to vacate the premises at 9-10am. Our tour was set for 11:30. I wanted to sleep in, but was up as soon as the daylight started seeping through the curtains.
The sun continued to rise, I continued to read. Going to be a hot, sunny day. Perfect for playing around underground.
Actually, it is. They shut down the caves if there’s been too much rain, as they flood easily and quickly. Our guide mentioned they’re probably closed for about 30 days each year due to rain. So, a sunny day is a good day to play in the dark.
Got to the "Legendary Blackwater Rafting Company" center, met our guides, Josh and Lucas. We’d left the cameras in the van as we knew we’d be getting WET. All the photos you see are from the CD I bought after our adventure.
That brings up a few points. While I got the email addys from my compatriots, I neglected to get permission to use their pics on the blog. Guys, please email me or use the comments if you want any pic removed. Also, these pics are resized for web use, I’ll be sending you the fullsize shots as soon as I get a reliable connection.
Got garbed in a wetsuit, boots, a helmet with built in led lights, and strapped on a climbing harness. Ready?
Jumped in a van, out to the cave mouth. Practiced our rappelling skills, as we were to drop straight down 40 meters (130 feet) from the surface on a rope to enter.
Clipped on, and down we went…
The entrance narrowed to a small hole about 30 feet down, I had to wriggle a bit to pass through and continue down.
Controlling our descent with thumb pressure, we slid to the bottom, the limestone opening up impressively. We waited at the bottom, watching everyone slide down. The opening was a tiny circle of light far above our heads. Gloworms here and there sparkled, the limestone walls reminding me of our “Pancake rocks” visit days ago.
We crept along the floor of the cave, sharp edges and fissures everywhere. Young stalactites and stalagmites hung here and there, thick and stubby.
We reached a hand line bolted into the wall, and clipped in. One by one, we zip lined over a deep chasm, our guides instructing us to shut off our lights as we went. Cool. The pulleys buzzing, the gloworm colonies streaming by.
Disengaging, we sat on a ledge overlooking a dark river of water flowing ten feet beneath our feet. Coffee from Lucas’ thermos fortified us. We sat in silence, gazing at the shining green constellations above.
Coffee done, we jumped on a pile of inner tubes…
Chose one, and leapt into the water below.
Cold! Popping back to the surface, we’d all managed to remain on our tubes. Finding the rope in the water, we pulled ourselves along, watching the cavern twist and turn above.
Finally stopping, we examined some low hanging gloworm fishing lines, got a bit of gloworm education, then we formed a chain. Boots on the tube in front of you, arms holding the boots of the person behind, we all extinguished our lights and floated as one back downstream, our guide at the front, skillfully navigating the darkness. Eyes becoming adjusted, the myriad glowing larvae actually produced enough light to see. Head back, I watched the lights stream slowly by. Absolutely beautiful.
Reaching the jump point, we splashed out of our tubes into waist deep water, tossing them back up onto the ledge for the next group.
Continuing downstream, the water deepened, the buoyancy of our suits helping. Walking unsteadily on the jagged floor, we eventually just laid back and floated down. We squeezed through a tight horizontal tube barely big enough for my shoulders, slid headfirst down a short waterslide. The tube widened, the water flow diminished and now only lapped mid calf, we stopped for a break.
Sitting on a natural ledge, feet still in the river, we again received a warm drink from the backpack Lucas wore… Hot O.J. and chunks of chocolate. Cupping the glass, feeling it warm my cold pruny hands, sitting in a subterranean chamber carved by the very river our feet were marinating in. What an experience.
Onward. We heard a roaring torrent in the distance, the noise carrying back and echoing off the walls. Our first waterfall.
Lucas pointed out the dangers, and the safe spot to aim for. We jumped. Going deep, I got a rush of cold water down the wetsuit collar, displacing the water I’d trapped against my skin and slowly warmed until it was a barrier to the cold river. Whew! The neoprene helped float me back to the surface, where we all bobbed. Lucas crept high on an overhanging pillar, and plunged deep. Impressive skills. The guy likes his job.
Crawling back toward the lip of the falls, we actually crept under the river like a surfer riding a barrel.
Crouched on a ledge underneath the cascade....
Popping up on the opposite side of the cave.
Continuing on through the labyrinthine tunnels, trying to avoid the sharp edges, but thankful for the helmet, we squeezed through a narrow ( as in narrower than my shoulders…I had to creep in on my belly ) opening near the floor, half full of inrushing water. This led to a small room, where another waterfall cascaded into the center. We climbed the steep walls, our guide wordlessly pointing to hand and footholds as the sound of rushing water was overpowering. Crept around a bend, and climbed yet another waterfall, this one with many of the holds actually under the waters surface, the rough stone giving excellent grip. Through a tighter passage, and daylight.
We stopped for photos..
Then scrambled out of the same small hole in the ground a creek was flowing into. Standing on solid ground, looking back at the tiny hole that led to such magnificent passages, my sense of smell suddenly hyper acute. I could smell the floral scent of flowers yards away. Apparently the sterile cave air resets your smell just as darkness adjusts your vision.
The walk back to the van in our squishy boots had us overheating in the sunshine, we pulled off the neoprene jackets before getting in. The ride back was primarily silent, reflective. What a day.
Back at the center, we showered and got a little bite to eat, chatted with our guides. A screen was scrolling through the photos Lucas had taken during the trip with a waterproof camera.
Saying our farewells, we headed to a small nearby town for supplies/books, then returned to the campground. Pulled the bikes out of the back, locking them to the tow loop welded to the bumper. Felt a twinge of regret that we haven’t utilized them as we thought/should. We barely put 50kms on them. Just no time. Either driving or doing something, no real cruise around time. Five weeks was not enough.
Enjoyed a cold beer in hot sunshine, watching spaces fill around us. Many German tourists this time of year, wonder why?
Waitomo caves. Highly recommended. Almost as much fun as jumping off a cliff. Almost. But this rush lasts 5 hours. Put it on your list. Really.
Goodnight.
The sun continued to rise, I continued to read. Going to be a hot, sunny day. Perfect for playing around underground.
Actually, it is. They shut down the caves if there’s been too much rain, as they flood easily and quickly. Our guide mentioned they’re probably closed for about 30 days each year due to rain. So, a sunny day is a good day to play in the dark.
Got to the "Legendary Blackwater Rafting Company" center, met our guides, Josh and Lucas. We’d left the cameras in the van as we knew we’d be getting WET. All the photos you see are from the CD I bought after our adventure.
That brings up a few points. While I got the email addys from my compatriots, I neglected to get permission to use their pics on the blog. Guys, please email me or use the comments if you want any pic removed. Also, these pics are resized for web use, I’ll be sending you the fullsize shots as soon as I get a reliable connection.
Got garbed in a wetsuit, boots, a helmet with built in led lights, and strapped on a climbing harness. Ready?
Jumped in a van, out to the cave mouth. Practiced our rappelling skills, as we were to drop straight down 40 meters (130 feet) from the surface on a rope to enter.
Clipped on, and down we went…
The entrance narrowed to a small hole about 30 feet down, I had to wriggle a bit to pass through and continue down.
Controlling our descent with thumb pressure, we slid to the bottom, the limestone opening up impressively. We waited at the bottom, watching everyone slide down. The opening was a tiny circle of light far above our heads. Gloworms here and there sparkled, the limestone walls reminding me of our “Pancake rocks” visit days ago.
We crept along the floor of the cave, sharp edges and fissures everywhere. Young stalactites and stalagmites hung here and there, thick and stubby.
We reached a hand line bolted into the wall, and clipped in. One by one, we zip lined over a deep chasm, our guides instructing us to shut off our lights as we went. Cool. The pulleys buzzing, the gloworm colonies streaming by.
Disengaging, we sat on a ledge overlooking a dark river of water flowing ten feet beneath our feet. Coffee from Lucas’ thermos fortified us. We sat in silence, gazing at the shining green constellations above.
Coffee done, we jumped on a pile of inner tubes…
Chose one, and leapt into the water below.
Cold! Popping back to the surface, we’d all managed to remain on our tubes. Finding the rope in the water, we pulled ourselves along, watching the cavern twist and turn above.
Finally stopping, we examined some low hanging gloworm fishing lines, got a bit of gloworm education, then we formed a chain. Boots on the tube in front of you, arms holding the boots of the person behind, we all extinguished our lights and floated as one back downstream, our guide at the front, skillfully navigating the darkness. Eyes becoming adjusted, the myriad glowing larvae actually produced enough light to see. Head back, I watched the lights stream slowly by. Absolutely beautiful.
Reaching the jump point, we splashed out of our tubes into waist deep water, tossing them back up onto the ledge for the next group.
Continuing downstream, the water deepened, the buoyancy of our suits helping. Walking unsteadily on the jagged floor, we eventually just laid back and floated down. We squeezed through a tight horizontal tube barely big enough for my shoulders, slid headfirst down a short waterslide. The tube widened, the water flow diminished and now only lapped mid calf, we stopped for a break.
Sitting on a natural ledge, feet still in the river, we again received a warm drink from the backpack Lucas wore… Hot O.J. and chunks of chocolate. Cupping the glass, feeling it warm my cold pruny hands, sitting in a subterranean chamber carved by the very river our feet were marinating in. What an experience.
Onward. We heard a roaring torrent in the distance, the noise carrying back and echoing off the walls. Our first waterfall.
Lucas pointed out the dangers, and the safe spot to aim for. We jumped. Going deep, I got a rush of cold water down the wetsuit collar, displacing the water I’d trapped against my skin and slowly warmed until it was a barrier to the cold river. Whew! The neoprene helped float me back to the surface, where we all bobbed. Lucas crept high on an overhanging pillar, and plunged deep. Impressive skills. The guy likes his job.
Crawling back toward the lip of the falls, we actually crept under the river like a surfer riding a barrel.
Crouched on a ledge underneath the cascade....
Popping up on the opposite side of the cave.
Continuing on through the labyrinthine tunnels, trying to avoid the sharp edges, but thankful for the helmet, we squeezed through a narrow ( as in narrower than my shoulders…I had to creep in on my belly ) opening near the floor, half full of inrushing water. This led to a small room, where another waterfall cascaded into the center. We climbed the steep walls, our guide wordlessly pointing to hand and footholds as the sound of rushing water was overpowering. Crept around a bend, and climbed yet another waterfall, this one with many of the holds actually under the waters surface, the rough stone giving excellent grip. Through a tighter passage, and daylight.
We stopped for photos..
Then scrambled out of the same small hole in the ground a creek was flowing into. Standing on solid ground, looking back at the tiny hole that led to such magnificent passages, my sense of smell suddenly hyper acute. I could smell the floral scent of flowers yards away. Apparently the sterile cave air resets your smell just as darkness adjusts your vision.
The walk back to the van in our squishy boots had us overheating in the sunshine, we pulled off the neoprene jackets before getting in. The ride back was primarily silent, reflective. What a day.
Back at the center, we showered and got a little bite to eat, chatted with our guides. A screen was scrolling through the photos Lucas had taken during the trip with a waterproof camera.
Saying our farewells, we headed to a small nearby town for supplies/books, then returned to the campground. Pulled the bikes out of the back, locking them to the tow loop welded to the bumper. Felt a twinge of regret that we haven’t utilized them as we thought/should. We barely put 50kms on them. Just no time. Either driving or doing something, no real cruise around time. Five weeks was not enough.
Enjoyed a cold beer in hot sunshine, watching spaces fill around us. Many German tourists this time of year, wonder why?
Waitomo caves. Highly recommended. Almost as much fun as jumping off a cliff. Almost. But this rush lasts 5 hours. Put it on your list. Really.
Goodnight.
Nov 10 Wanganui to Waitomo Caves
After posting, took advantage of the hot free showers, as it’s always a dice roll whether the campsite showers are free, too cold/hot, poor pressure, run cold just as you soap up, etc., so you really enjoy the good ones.
Got driving. Not much to take pics of this post, so I’ll talk about the roads and cars for a bit. (Ladies, you can probably skip this section altogether.)
Minis. The real ones. Still a presence here, seem to do well with the lower speed limits. Always been a pretty car to me.
Oh yeah, the retro car I photographed way back in Dunedin? Saw another, it had “Figaro” on the wheel covers, it that helps anyone that has the inclination and a better web connection than I. Please toss the answer in the comments if you do.
Again, even though there are slightly more trucks out here, kiwi’s still use their cars for things like towing trailers ( saw one four door sedan pulling a huge trailer with two big horses aboard. Squatted in the back, but moving along just fine.) Odd that U.S. towing capacities are so much less than the same car over here. Maybe liability?
Still odd to me that oncoming traffic turning right has the right-of-way over you turning left onto the same street. Makes me double check my blinkers frequently, as if one was left on, a car would assume I was turning and legally turn across my path. I wonder why it is as it is?
Roundabouts are nice, but I can see where they’d reach a saturation point and lights would work better. Then again, there’s a 5 way rotary in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada that does really well, even in rush hour, cars just follow the one for one rule and everybody gets where they’re going. Might be an interesting American experiment.
Seeing more and more motorcycles about. Better weather? They must like their exotic bikes here, Ducatis are frequent and I’ve seen 3 MV Augustas ( That’s a U.S. $16,000 base to $120,000 top of the line bike).
Lots of speed/drinking/tired signs roadside here, friendly reminders like “Going downhill? Check your speed “ that kind of thing. Different slogans, different message. Short, sweet, many rather clever.
Many of these vans cruising about… four wheel drive looking 2.8 intercooler turbo…
Yet another cool toy we don’t get to play with in North America. When will we start seeing oem turbos and superchargers on cars? They just make sense, especially on small motors that are becoming more and more popular? The “ No replacement for displacement.” attitude has run it’s course.
Decided to forgo our original plan of driving the jagged coastline around Mt. Taranaki/Edgemont, as our guidebook said there was little to see, it was overcast with occasional rain, and to count on 3 hours of drive time. We wanted to get some miles in, as we’d slowed our pace these last few days. Taking the more direct route, the mountain soon appeared to our left…
Regarding the above panoramic… I’d been waiting for a clear shot of the mountain, found a suitable pulloff spot, but had to walk back along the road to find the same view. Once there, I realized that on foot, the berm of a roadside field blocked my shot. Damn. I scampered up the embankment, stopping at the omnipresent fenceline. Utilizing a thick fencepost to stabilize the camera to line up the multiple shots to compose the panorama, I leaned in and….
BZZZZZTTT!!!
A tingling/numbing zap shot up my arm. Almost dropped the camera. Touched the electric fence. Hope you all appreciate the sacrifices I make to keep you entertained.
Another shot of the mountain, shortly before it was kneecapped by the lowlying cloud bank you see creeping in from the right….
Lots of farm machinery on the roads, most are sympathetic and pull off as much as possible to let you past. Also, lots of “stock effluent” dump stations roadside, with (I just read this somewhere) nine sheep to every New Zealander, there’s a lot of animals being transported along the road. Good idea. I remember being a fairly new motorcyclist back in Nova Scotia, following a cattle truck in the rain for miles, not realizing until I got off the bike that I’d been riding in a fine mix of rain, tire spray, and cow manure/urine for miles. Thought the stench would never come off.
Got to the campsite, after some discussion, booked the maximum “Black Abyss” tour. Caving in the morning! Going caving!
Goodnight.
P.S. those funky vans I’d mentioned? Here’s one in the spot next to us…
Got driving. Not much to take pics of this post, so I’ll talk about the roads and cars for a bit. (Ladies, you can probably skip this section altogether.)
Minis. The real ones. Still a presence here, seem to do well with the lower speed limits. Always been a pretty car to me.
Oh yeah, the retro car I photographed way back in Dunedin? Saw another, it had “Figaro” on the wheel covers, it that helps anyone that has the inclination and a better web connection than I. Please toss the answer in the comments if you do.
Again, even though there are slightly more trucks out here, kiwi’s still use their cars for things like towing trailers ( saw one four door sedan pulling a huge trailer with two big horses aboard. Squatted in the back, but moving along just fine.) Odd that U.S. towing capacities are so much less than the same car over here. Maybe liability?
Still odd to me that oncoming traffic turning right has the right-of-way over you turning left onto the same street. Makes me double check my blinkers frequently, as if one was left on, a car would assume I was turning and legally turn across my path. I wonder why it is as it is?
Roundabouts are nice, but I can see where they’d reach a saturation point and lights would work better. Then again, there’s a 5 way rotary in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada that does really well, even in rush hour, cars just follow the one for one rule and everybody gets where they’re going. Might be an interesting American experiment.
Seeing more and more motorcycles about. Better weather? They must like their exotic bikes here, Ducatis are frequent and I’ve seen 3 MV Augustas ( That’s a U.S. $16,000 base to $120,000 top of the line bike).
Lots of speed/drinking/tired signs roadside here, friendly reminders like “Going downhill? Check your speed “ that kind of thing. Different slogans, different message. Short, sweet, many rather clever.
Many of these vans cruising about… four wheel drive looking 2.8 intercooler turbo…
Yet another cool toy we don’t get to play with in North America. When will we start seeing oem turbos and superchargers on cars? They just make sense, especially on small motors that are becoming more and more popular? The “ No replacement for displacement.” attitude has run it’s course.
Decided to forgo our original plan of driving the jagged coastline around Mt. Taranaki/Edgemont, as our guidebook said there was little to see, it was overcast with occasional rain, and to count on 3 hours of drive time. We wanted to get some miles in, as we’d slowed our pace these last few days. Taking the more direct route, the mountain soon appeared to our left…
Regarding the above panoramic… I’d been waiting for a clear shot of the mountain, found a suitable pulloff spot, but had to walk back along the road to find the same view. Once there, I realized that on foot, the berm of a roadside field blocked my shot. Damn. I scampered up the embankment, stopping at the omnipresent fenceline. Utilizing a thick fencepost to stabilize the camera to line up the multiple shots to compose the panorama, I leaned in and….
BZZZZZTTT!!!
A tingling/numbing zap shot up my arm. Almost dropped the camera. Touched the electric fence. Hope you all appreciate the sacrifices I make to keep you entertained.
Another shot of the mountain, shortly before it was kneecapped by the lowlying cloud bank you see creeping in from the right….
Lots of farm machinery on the roads, most are sympathetic and pull off as much as possible to let you past. Also, lots of “stock effluent” dump stations roadside, with (I just read this somewhere) nine sheep to every New Zealander, there’s a lot of animals being transported along the road. Good idea. I remember being a fairly new motorcyclist back in Nova Scotia, following a cattle truck in the rain for miles, not realizing until I got off the bike that I’d been riding in a fine mix of rain, tire spray, and cow manure/urine for miles. Thought the stench would never come off.
Got to the campsite, after some discussion, booked the maximum “Black Abyss” tour. Caving in the morning! Going caving!
Goodnight.
P.S. those funky vans I’d mentioned? Here’s one in the spot next to us…
Nov09 Picton to Wanganui
Awoke in plenty of time to check out the ferry schedule, tried to book online but wouldn’t accept our discount coupons. Three sailings today, they recommended bookings but we chanced it and drove right on. We’d wanted to cross in the daylight to see the surrounding topography as the boat wound it’s way between the islands. Pretty…
Entering Cook Strait… leaving the South…
Coming into Wellington on the North Island…
Unfortunately the ferry was late, we didn’t arrive on the north island over an hour later than we thought. This meant we weren’t going to get far before dark and we’d settle in again. We have only 1 week left with the van and still have a few things to do.
Stopped at a pretty overlook outside the city…
Got chatting with a Triumph Bonneville biker. Friendly guy, he even offered to take Denise for a ride.
Left the turnoff, accelerated onto the highway, still looking at the rocky cove. Looked in the rearview, and…. “Damn.”
Police car with flashing lights approaching fast. Speedo says 100, Limit there was 80. Crap.
I put on my blinker, acknowledging his presence, but there was nowhere to pull over. Finally I found enough room to pull onto the elevated shoulder/sidewalk. The cop blew past, continuing on with his roof lights strobing. Whew.
Stopped in a “Top ten” campsite (these have better amenities for slightly more cash), but I wanted the wireless connection. Got settled, ate, plugged in, got online, and then… nothing. Wouldn’t even find a network. Seems they shut down their computer/router after hours, so even though you’ve paid for the ‘net time, you can’t get on. Nice.
Was a late night anyway, reading and editing pictures. Lights out around midnight (Yeah, I know. Us. On a day schedule. Well, we are on the other side of the world.)
Again, when the office opened at 0830, back online we were. Grrr. Posted a few updates for you. Thanks for the comments, too. Helps to hear voices from home. We miss you guys. Also checked my email, seems my video of the Shotover Jet to which I added “Chelsea Dagger” by The Fratellis got a “copyrighted material” notation from whoever represents their music. I know, I’m a bad boy. They’re “allowing” me to keep it on Youtube, but there’s a few conditions, they get stats and can put an ad on the page, apparently. Good to know your cd buying cash is so well utilized by the lawyers.
Entering Cook Strait… leaving the South…
Coming into Wellington on the North Island…
Unfortunately the ferry was late, we didn’t arrive on the north island over an hour later than we thought. This meant we weren’t going to get far before dark and we’d settle in again. We have only 1 week left with the van and still have a few things to do.
Stopped at a pretty overlook outside the city…
Got chatting with a Triumph Bonneville biker. Friendly guy, he even offered to take Denise for a ride.
Left the turnoff, accelerated onto the highway, still looking at the rocky cove. Looked in the rearview, and…. “Damn.”
Police car with flashing lights approaching fast. Speedo says 100, Limit there was 80. Crap.
I put on my blinker, acknowledging his presence, but there was nowhere to pull over. Finally I found enough room to pull onto the elevated shoulder/sidewalk. The cop blew past, continuing on with his roof lights strobing. Whew.
Stopped in a “Top ten” campsite (these have better amenities for slightly more cash), but I wanted the wireless connection. Got settled, ate, plugged in, got online, and then… nothing. Wouldn’t even find a network. Seems they shut down their computer/router after hours, so even though you’ve paid for the ‘net time, you can’t get on. Nice.
Was a late night anyway, reading and editing pictures. Lights out around midnight (Yeah, I know. Us. On a day schedule. Well, we are on the other side of the world.)
Again, when the office opened at 0830, back online we were. Grrr. Posted a few updates for you. Thanks for the comments, too. Helps to hear voices from home. We miss you guys. Also checked my email, seems my video of the Shotover Jet to which I added “Chelsea Dagger” by The Fratellis got a “copyrighted material” notation from whoever represents their music. I know, I’m a bad boy. They’re “allowing” me to keep it on Youtube, but there’s a few conditions, they get stats and can put an ad on the page, apparently. Good to know your cd buying cash is so well utilized by the lawyers.
Nov 08 Easy Day Nelson to Picton
Left campsite early after a good night’s sleep. Crept through the multiple rotaries to get downtown, we were going to check out the weekly market.
Found this little Alfa Romeo Spider to park behind…
Walked the market, found a few cool things but were restricted by what we thought we could get back on the plane. Back in the van. Denise suggested a shortcut that would slice miles off, but being a smaller line on the map following the coast, the speed would probably significantly slower.
Yep. Another chunk of convoluted tarmac that made me wish I was on a motorcycle. Sun beating down, beautiful inlets to our left, we crept along the sharp bends , averaging 40km/hr. Climbed up a hillside that jutted out into the ocean, it had a pulloff at the top.
Looking out to sea…
Turning 180 degrees, looking back toward the mainland…
Yeah. Like that. Green-blue water, tiny homes tucked away near the shore.
Before we knew it, we found ourselves descending down to the harbor sheltering the ferry and the small town of Picton…
A quick day. We parked downtown in a lot specifically for campervans and went for a bite/beer at a nice little outdoor café on a busy corner, enjoying the easy day and the sun. Just enough breeze to be comfortable.
Found Alexanders’ Campsite with wireless!!! We planned to walk to a town overlook decided to stay “in” and cook, utilizing our provisions now time is getting short.
Tried to sleep, but the 4 trains overnight on the elevated trestle just behind the site ensured a fragmented evening. Didn’t mention that in the campsite brochure, either.
New rule. No campsites near airports, freeways, or train yards.
Going to try hop on a boat in the am and return to the North Island to do a few more things and eventually return the van and fly away home.
Goodnight, y’all
Found this little Alfa Romeo Spider to park behind…
Walked the market, found a few cool things but were restricted by what we thought we could get back on the plane. Back in the van. Denise suggested a shortcut that would slice miles off, but being a smaller line on the map following the coast, the speed would probably significantly slower.
Yep. Another chunk of convoluted tarmac that made me wish I was on a motorcycle. Sun beating down, beautiful inlets to our left, we crept along the sharp bends , averaging 40km/hr. Climbed up a hillside that jutted out into the ocean, it had a pulloff at the top.
Looking out to sea…
Turning 180 degrees, looking back toward the mainland…
Yeah. Like that. Green-blue water, tiny homes tucked away near the shore.
Before we knew it, we found ourselves descending down to the harbor sheltering the ferry and the small town of Picton…
A quick day. We parked downtown in a lot specifically for campervans and went for a bite/beer at a nice little outdoor café on a busy corner, enjoying the easy day and the sun. Just enough breeze to be comfortable.
Found Alexanders’ Campsite with wireless!!! We planned to walk to a town overlook decided to stay “in” and cook, utilizing our provisions now time is getting short.
Tried to sleep, but the 4 trains overnight on the elevated trestle just behind the site ensured a fragmented evening. Didn’t mention that in the campsite brochure, either.
New rule. No campsites near airports, freeways, or train yards.
Going to try hop on a boat in the am and return to the North Island to do a few more things and eventually return the van and fly away home.
Goodnight, y’all
Nov07 Karamea caves
Awoke to overcast skies but no rain. Drove to get tickets to the cave tour, met the actual guide in the building. Drove to the dirt road that led to the caves, met the same group of motorcyclists we’d been crossing paths with for a few days. Diverse group, a Harley, a big KTM supermoto, an R1, a MV Augusta sport bike, and an older Ducati full fairing painted the trademark green red and white of the flag. An Aprilia 1000 and a new Buell 1125r. I was a bit envious, but that went away as the rains began.
The long dirt road was almost wide enough for two cars to pass. The sign said not recommended for campervans, but oh well.
Following the guide, we finally pulled into the parking area. Multiple signs warned we were about to enter a protected, dangerous area etc, etc.
As we walked, our guide chatted, explaining the geology, the geography, the plant life, the animal population. Very knowledgeable and informative. The brook we followed was stained brilliant orange from the leaf litter tannins…
The valley sits low, protected from the cruel winds, and receives huge amounts of rainfall. The moss and greenery was amazing…
Got to the cave mouth, a dark slash in the lush greenery.
The cave system is huge, we only dipped our toe in during our visit, probably saw less than 5% of the navigable area. Massive. 300 entrances. Donning our helmets and turning on our “torches”, we descended.
Stalactites hung everywhere, oddly twisted from years of shifting air flows as the water continued to erode the limestone and change the cave’s structure. Chris said a general rule for stalactite growth was 1 inch equaled roughly 500 years.
One of the more scientific interests in this cave system is that it’s been collecting animal remains for thousands of years. Several moa ( extinct huge flightless bird ) skeletons remain here, as well as more ancient and current species. A smaller one…
Sort of a “time capsule” of history. The biggest moa was about six feet high at the shoulder and 550 lbs. Also found was the extinct Haast Eagle, with a three meter (9ft!) wingspan and massive talons it could easily fly off with sheep and children, and crush a man’s skull with a strike. Maori legend has several accounts of a “demon” from the skies killing people.
Still finding bones in here, Chris said there’s a room not depicted on the map for security reasons, where the floor has been eroded by a newer stream, you walk in this trough, both sides being five feet deep with bones-thousands of years of near fossils. Wow.
Some get washed in, some die near the entrances, some fall in. This particular room, for example is known as the “deer drop” room, for the unfortunate deer that got stuck in the hole above, died, rotted, and then the bones gradually fell to the cavern floor. Not a good day for the deer.
This stalagmite is growing upward, the calcium stained with the same tannins coloring the river above. Brilliant color in the cool darkness. Broken pieces nearby show rings of “growth” much like trees, where the tannin has been staining irregularly over the years.
Able to get up close to a glow worm, a good look at the tubular sliminess and the sticky threads of silk it spins to trap the insects attracted by it’s glowing green spot. Apparently uses very similar venom, silk, and glue as spiders.
Exited the cave from another area, walked back to the cars, where Chris had coffee, tea, and treats. We chatted for a while, got recommendations on nearby caves and attractions. A great experience.
We took Chris’ advice and explored two other caves alone. One is scientifically important for “crazy paving”, a crinkled and cracked floor thought to heve been created when the cave dried very slowly over a very long time, …
(reminds me of the crazing effect in the lake beds when the desert dries them out, so they’re probably right)
And a known haven for huge cave spiders. Impressive things, they’ve specialized so much their venom now only works on the cave crickets. Here’s some of their egg sacs…
And one of them with a cricket piece in it’s jaws…
Also found a little demon girl..
The entrance to the Box Cavern cave we explored next (I like this shot)…
Left the caves. We had driving to do, the day was getting late. A pretty panoramic..
Back over steep ridges, returning the 100km of backtracking we needed to do to continue. Again, 30-50km/hr with tires scuffing. Fun stuff. Got back on the main highway heading toward Nelson. Following a river valley, the road twisted and turned among small peaks. Rounding a bend, another one way section…
And a nice panorama spot as the river swept around…
Rain and sun breaks continued, Denise suggested we stretch our legs at the longest suspension footbridge in New Zealand…
Continuing on we finally reached Nelson, our destination for the night. Nice. Nearly on the beach. We’ve started utilizing campsites that advertise internet, hoping to be able to get online and post our explorations. Not working out so well, though, still hit or miss. Got a site, then left to get some dinner.
Got a Mac’s beer sampler with food to share . Good stuff. Oddly, the waitress came and took our plates away before Denise was finished or had time to swallow and say, “HEY!”. Weird.
Walked to he beach, watched a beautiful sunset…
Back to the campsite, found out that the campsite is on an airport approach path. Didn’t mention that little fact in the brochure. Another issue… No Internet! It was there one minute, gone the next. Not happy.
I cruised the campsite, opening the laptop as I searched for a connection. Boom!
What was t… Boom!
Fireworks. Many places. Small fireworks, set off in the fast approaching darkness. Met an Australian girl at the BBQ who explained it was Guy Fawkes’ Day, hence the explosions.
Back to the van, posting an update plans dashed, and slept soundly despite the aircraft overhead.
G’night.
The long dirt road was almost wide enough for two cars to pass. The sign said not recommended for campervans, but oh well.
Following the guide, we finally pulled into the parking area. Multiple signs warned we were about to enter a protected, dangerous area etc, etc.
As we walked, our guide chatted, explaining the geology, the geography, the plant life, the animal population. Very knowledgeable and informative. The brook we followed was stained brilliant orange from the leaf litter tannins…
The valley sits low, protected from the cruel winds, and receives huge amounts of rainfall. The moss and greenery was amazing…
Got to the cave mouth, a dark slash in the lush greenery.
The cave system is huge, we only dipped our toe in during our visit, probably saw less than 5% of the navigable area. Massive. 300 entrances. Donning our helmets and turning on our “torches”, we descended.
Stalactites hung everywhere, oddly twisted from years of shifting air flows as the water continued to erode the limestone and change the cave’s structure. Chris said a general rule for stalactite growth was 1 inch equaled roughly 500 years.
One of the more scientific interests in this cave system is that it’s been collecting animal remains for thousands of years. Several moa ( extinct huge flightless bird ) skeletons remain here, as well as more ancient and current species. A smaller one…
Sort of a “time capsule” of history. The biggest moa was about six feet high at the shoulder and 550 lbs. Also found was the extinct Haast Eagle, with a three meter (9ft!) wingspan and massive talons it could easily fly off with sheep and children, and crush a man’s skull with a strike. Maori legend has several accounts of a “demon” from the skies killing people.
Still finding bones in here, Chris said there’s a room not depicted on the map for security reasons, where the floor has been eroded by a newer stream, you walk in this trough, both sides being five feet deep with bones-thousands of years of near fossils. Wow.
Some get washed in, some die near the entrances, some fall in. This particular room, for example is known as the “deer drop” room, for the unfortunate deer that got stuck in the hole above, died, rotted, and then the bones gradually fell to the cavern floor. Not a good day for the deer.
This stalagmite is growing upward, the calcium stained with the same tannins coloring the river above. Brilliant color in the cool darkness. Broken pieces nearby show rings of “growth” much like trees, where the tannin has been staining irregularly over the years.
Able to get up close to a glow worm, a good look at the tubular sliminess and the sticky threads of silk it spins to trap the insects attracted by it’s glowing green spot. Apparently uses very similar venom, silk, and glue as spiders.
Exited the cave from another area, walked back to the cars, where Chris had coffee, tea, and treats. We chatted for a while, got recommendations on nearby caves and attractions. A great experience.
We took Chris’ advice and explored two other caves alone. One is scientifically important for “crazy paving”, a crinkled and cracked floor thought to heve been created when the cave dried very slowly over a very long time, …
(reminds me of the crazing effect in the lake beds when the desert dries them out, so they’re probably right)
And a known haven for huge cave spiders. Impressive things, they’ve specialized so much their venom now only works on the cave crickets. Here’s some of their egg sacs…
And one of them with a cricket piece in it’s jaws…
Also found a little demon girl..
The entrance to the Box Cavern cave we explored next (I like this shot)…
Left the caves. We had driving to do, the day was getting late. A pretty panoramic..
Back over steep ridges, returning the 100km of backtracking we needed to do to continue. Again, 30-50km/hr with tires scuffing. Fun stuff. Got back on the main highway heading toward Nelson. Following a river valley, the road twisted and turned among small peaks. Rounding a bend, another one way section…
And a nice panorama spot as the river swept around…
Rain and sun breaks continued, Denise suggested we stretch our legs at the longest suspension footbridge in New Zealand…
Continuing on we finally reached Nelson, our destination for the night. Nice. Nearly on the beach. We’ve started utilizing campsites that advertise internet, hoping to be able to get online and post our explorations. Not working out so well, though, still hit or miss. Got a site, then left to get some dinner.
Got a Mac’s beer sampler with food to share . Good stuff. Oddly, the waitress came and took our plates away before Denise was finished or had time to swallow and say, “HEY!”. Weird.
Walked to he beach, watched a beautiful sunset…
Back to the campsite, found out that the campsite is on an airport approach path. Didn’t mention that little fact in the brochure. Another issue… No Internet! It was there one minute, gone the next. Not happy.
I cruised the campsite, opening the laptop as I searched for a connection. Boom!
What was t… Boom!
Fireworks. Many places. Small fireworks, set off in the fast approaching darkness. Met an Australian girl at the BBQ who explained it was Guy Fawkes’ Day, hence the explosions.
Back to the van, posting an update plans dashed, and slept soundly despite the aircraft overhead.
G’night.
Nov06FJ to Karamea
Nov06FJ to Karamea
Awoke early, poor sleep again. Going to need a vacation when we get home. Long drive ahead, a few hundred kilometers. Doesn’t sound like much, but you can’t simply divide the distance by the speed limit and get the actual driving time like you can in the U.S. and Canada.
100km is a long way, many of the roads are so gnarled and twisted you’re lucky to average 30-50km/hr despite 100kph limit, especially in a fat butted campervan with overenthusiastic traction control. (Thing shuts off power at the merest hint of a slide, unspooling the turbo, leaving you at least a gear too high if there’s any sort of incline…not fun. I shut it off now during uphill twisty runs.) Adding to the fun was yet more one lane bridges, but now they’ve added train tracks to the mix for even more driving enjoyment…
Dead possums everywhere. That’s about all I see for road kill, excepting the occasional bird. Not the same possums as the ugly U.S> ones, they’re nocturnal, and actually furry and cute, but remember the movie “Gremlins”? They’ve overrun N.Z., pushing native species of flora and fauna alike out of their habitat and near extinction in some cases. They’re hated here. Poisoned, trapped, hunted. Little fledgling industry is making stuff out of possum fur, and/or blending it with merino wool to make warm knitwear.
Rolled up to the small town of Greymouth for one purpose…. Another brewery tour!!!
Monteiths brewery has an original outpost here. Employs 7 people. Small, neat operation.
Got to taste the 5 kinds of malt they use to make their beer, the crystal variety was surprising good… crunchy and sweet. The darker roasts took on more and more of a burnt toast taste, though.
The extraction/separation process, cool to see with the big viewing window in the tank…
The sweet malt extract after losing the husks. The remnants go to local farmers as cattle feed.
Above is the heat exchanger used to chill the wort. The extracted heat warms water in a parallel circuit that is stored in the big tank below and used to create the next batch of wort. Good energy management.
She actually led us up the stairs in the tank room, where we got to see two brews fermenting. Monteiths uses the “open vat” method, they say the escaping co2 from the yeast forms a shield against contamination once the stain they’ve pitched starts working, so no need for a cover or to keep people out. The smell was wonderful in here.
Their “golden” ale…
And their “dark”…
The best part…. The tasting room.
They’ve made a “Radler” beer, a light gold ale with a slight lemon-lime flavor, it’s selling incredibly well. An English guy with us on the tour said in England they did the same thing by adding a splash of lime on top of lager, it was called a “Lagertop”. Our guide explained Radler meant cyclist, it was originally a beer watered down with lemonade so the bicycle riders wouldn’t get too drunk and crash. Interesting history.
Continued on. One of the books mentioned “Pancake rocks”, an odd collection of layered limestone extending out into the ocean. We stopped.
The layers of rock allowed the waves to undercut and shape the shoreline extensively, creating blowholes and caverns, columns, arches, and deep crevices. Surreal landscape.
This is a huge (you can see the walking trail on the opposite top edge) square opening that the ocean waves fill and withdraw, causing huge splashes and surges as the water finds itself with nowhere to go. ..
The underground rooms created by the erosion often have impressive blowholes, as the incoming water causes pressurization of the trapped air. It then escapes upward through cracks. Pretty…
They say it’s best when there’s high seas. I think we chose a good day…
This Weka was darting back and forth across the road, obviously a fixture here as it probably gets fed frequently. Fast on it’s feet for such a weird bird…
O.K., Back to work. Driving, driving. Finally reached our destination, crossing two passes before finally descending back to sea level. Whitebait were obviously still running, every pulloff was occupied with beat up cars and trucks containing hip waders and a big fine mesh net to trap the things. Signs everywhere proclaiming whitebait for sale.
Settled in, briefly considered cycling down the road along the estuary to the coast, but decided some wine tasting in the back of the camper sounded better.
Goodnight.
Awoke early, poor sleep again. Going to need a vacation when we get home. Long drive ahead, a few hundred kilometers. Doesn’t sound like much, but you can’t simply divide the distance by the speed limit and get the actual driving time like you can in the U.S. and Canada.
100km is a long way, many of the roads are so gnarled and twisted you’re lucky to average 30-50km/hr despite 100kph limit, especially in a fat butted campervan with overenthusiastic traction control. (Thing shuts off power at the merest hint of a slide, unspooling the turbo, leaving you at least a gear too high if there’s any sort of incline…not fun. I shut it off now during uphill twisty runs.) Adding to the fun was yet more one lane bridges, but now they’ve added train tracks to the mix for even more driving enjoyment…
Dead possums everywhere. That’s about all I see for road kill, excepting the occasional bird. Not the same possums as the ugly U.S> ones, they’re nocturnal, and actually furry and cute, but remember the movie “Gremlins”? They’ve overrun N.Z., pushing native species of flora and fauna alike out of their habitat and near extinction in some cases. They’re hated here. Poisoned, trapped, hunted. Little fledgling industry is making stuff out of possum fur, and/or blending it with merino wool to make warm knitwear.
Rolled up to the small town of Greymouth for one purpose…. Another brewery tour!!!
Monteiths brewery has an original outpost here. Employs 7 people. Small, neat operation.
Got to taste the 5 kinds of malt they use to make their beer, the crystal variety was surprising good… crunchy and sweet. The darker roasts took on more and more of a burnt toast taste, though.
The extraction/separation process, cool to see with the big viewing window in the tank…
The sweet malt extract after losing the husks. The remnants go to local farmers as cattle feed.
Above is the heat exchanger used to chill the wort. The extracted heat warms water in a parallel circuit that is stored in the big tank below and used to create the next batch of wort. Good energy management.
She actually led us up the stairs in the tank room, where we got to see two brews fermenting. Monteiths uses the “open vat” method, they say the escaping co2 from the yeast forms a shield against contamination once the stain they’ve pitched starts working, so no need for a cover or to keep people out. The smell was wonderful in here.
Their “golden” ale…
And their “dark”…
The best part…. The tasting room.
They’ve made a “Radler” beer, a light gold ale with a slight lemon-lime flavor, it’s selling incredibly well. An English guy with us on the tour said in England they did the same thing by adding a splash of lime on top of lager, it was called a “Lagertop”. Our guide explained Radler meant cyclist, it was originally a beer watered down with lemonade so the bicycle riders wouldn’t get too drunk and crash. Interesting history.
Continued on. One of the books mentioned “Pancake rocks”, an odd collection of layered limestone extending out into the ocean. We stopped.
The layers of rock allowed the waves to undercut and shape the shoreline extensively, creating blowholes and caverns, columns, arches, and deep crevices. Surreal landscape.
This is a huge (you can see the walking trail on the opposite top edge) square opening that the ocean waves fill and withdraw, causing huge splashes and surges as the water finds itself with nowhere to go. ..
The underground rooms created by the erosion often have impressive blowholes, as the incoming water causes pressurization of the trapped air. It then escapes upward through cracks. Pretty…
They say it’s best when there’s high seas. I think we chose a good day…
This Weka was darting back and forth across the road, obviously a fixture here as it probably gets fed frequently. Fast on it’s feet for such a weird bird…
O.K., Back to work. Driving, driving. Finally reached our destination, crossing two passes before finally descending back to sea level. Whitebait were obviously still running, every pulloff was occupied with beat up cars and trucks containing hip waders and a big fine mesh net to trap the things. Signs everywhere proclaiming whitebait for sale.
Settled in, briefly considered cycling down the road along the estuary to the coast, but decided some wine tasting in the back of the camper sounded better.
Goodnight.
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